ASTYPALEA TRAVEL GUIDE

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Astypalea (or Astypalaia) is a small but beautiful greek island in the south Aegean Sea; part of the Dodecanese, although its architecture is similar to the one of the Cyclades. It is often called the butterfly of the Aegean as it resembles the shape of a butterfly.

This guide will tell and also show you with photos everything you need to know about planning your trip to Astypalea, the best places to visit and things to do and also provide detailed maps and itinerary.

Why shall you visit Astypalea?

Astypalea is one of the lesser known islands of the Aegean and therefore an ideal destination for a relaxed and quiet holiday in the sun. It has some beautiful scenery and some nice beaches, but the main highlight is the island’s capital, the stunning Chora, one of the most beautiful in the whole Aegean.

It is definitely less touristy compared with the rest of the more popular islands, although in the last few years, it has increased in popularity among the young generation that seeks more alternative destinations.

The island is divided into the western part (Mesa Nisi) and the eastern part of the island (Exo Nisi) with a narrow strip connecting the two parts. 

The main settlements on the island are Chora and its port Pera Gialos, Livadi with its nice beach, Analipsi (or Maltezana) as the second largest settlement and Vathi, a tiny harbour at the eastern part of the island.

The tourist season starts from May to the end of September.

For a beach holiday, the best time to visit the island of Astypalea is between June and mid-September. It’s dry, sunny and hot. Also, most of the tourist amenities will only be open during these months.

If you want to avoid the crowds, I would avoid the summer months of July and August, as the island tends to get very busy with most Greeks taking their holidays then and prices tend to be higher and most places tend to get fully booked. Weather can also get very hot, with temperatures over 30°C. However, the island is full of life during those months with everything open and in full swing.

Wind can be an issue in Astypalea as in most islands of the Aegean and particularly in the Cyclades. It can get very windy when the northern winds blow and sometimes can last for days, which is a curse and a blessing as it can naturally cool the hot temperatures but it can be uncomfortable for swimming.

May can be a bit cold to swim in the sea and sunbathe, but it is usually dry and sunny. October is still sunny but with more clouds.

Off-season there are fewer ferries and flights and some shops, hotels, and restaurants, especially in the tourist resorts close in October and do not open until May.

For me, the best time to visit will be mid-June or early September with more acceptable temperatures, fewer crowds and lower prices but still possible to swim in the sea.

Astypalea is a small island (about 97sqkm), but I would recommend staying on the island for at least 4 days if you would like to explore it at a more relaxed pace and visit the more isolated beaches and parts of the island.

I would suggest 3 days exploring the island and 1 day for a cruise into the nearby smaller islets.

The most popular place to stay in Astypalea is by far Chora and Pera Gialos (the port). Most of the hotels and tourist amenities are situated there. However, you can also stay in Livadi or Analipsi (Maltezana), the two other places that have hotels and tourist infrastructure.

My recommendation is to stay in Chora and Pera Gialos as it is the heart and soul of the island. It is the most picturesque place with a small beach, a nice little harbour and the majority of bars and restaurants on the island. There are also a lot of hotels and rooms to rent and it’s the best base to explore the island.

Best hotels in Astypalea

• Aphrodite-studios: Nice studios in the centre of Pera Gialos. Good value for money.
• Vithos Aparthotel: Great location by the harbour of Pera Gialos overlooking Chora and the castle.
• Atlantic: Great location in Chora with amazing views from the balconies.
• Lefkantemo: Situated centrally in Chora with great views.
• Aegean Sea Villas: The best apartments in Livadi, slightly expensive but the views are worth it.
• Hotel Paradissos: Basic but nice hotel by the beach of Pera Gialos with nice views from the balconies.
• Maletezana Beach Hotel: One of the best hotels in Analipsi (Maletzana) close to the beach.

Click here to check and compare prices on accommodation for the whole island.

By Plane

Astypalaia Island National Airport is a small airport that serves mainly the capital Athens (45min flight) with Olympic Air or Sky Express.

If you are travelling from Athens, taking a flight can be a bit more expensive than taking the ferry, especially in high season. However, it is much more convenient and definitely recommended if you have limited time in Greece.

For the best website to book your flights, check the link below. Always check prices in advance for the best deals.

Getting from/to the airport

The airport is located very close to Analipsi (Maltezana) and about 10km away from Chora, the capital of Astypalea.

During the summer, upon a flight’s arrival, there is a public bus and taxis outside the airport to transfer passengers around the island.

It is also worth checking with your hotel as most of them offer airport transfers at an extra charge.

By Ferry

There are ferries from the port of Piraeus in Athens, usually 3 times per week during high season. It’s a 9 to 10-hour long trip, so It can be very tiring but it can be combined with visits to other islands of the Aegean, as the ferry from Piraeus passes other neighbouring islands (Paros, Naxos, Amorgos). The price is usually around €40 for a single ticket.

Astypalea is also connected with some other islands in the Dodecanese, including Kos, Nisyros, Kalymnos & Rhodes.

For the cheapest site to book your ferry ticket in Greece, check the link below.

Getting from/to the port

Astypalea’s new port is located in the north of the island, 5km from Chora, in Agios Andreas. There is a bus connecting the port with Chora.

By Car

I would definitely recommend hiring a car if you would like to explore the island.

I always try and rent a car whenever I travel as it just gives you the freedom to plan your trip as you want and stop wherever you like, as I usually do with too many photo stops along the way.

Unfortunately, the majority of the roads are dirt roads so it might be better to rent a 4×4.

The best places to rent are in Pera Gialos and Chora.

Car rental for a day is usually 40 euros in high season. Better to book in advance before your travel for the best deals. Also in high season, there might be low availability and the prices can be much higher if you leave it until you arrive. Check the link below to book and compare car rental prices.

There are car rental offices mainly in Chora but you can book it in advance and have it delivered to the airport or port.

By Scooter/Motorbike/Quadbike

A cheaper alternative to the car is renting a scooter or motorbike if you are comfortable with it, but you need to be more cautious on the road.

Quadbikes can be limited and they are not much cheaper than renting a car, but they can be quite fun.

By Taxi

It might be ideal for short drives, eg between Livadi and Chora or Chora to the new port.

By Bus

Buses run relatively frequently during the summer, connecting the Chora (buses stop near windmills) to the other settlements of the island like Livadi and Analipsi, although to access the beaches you will need your own transport or take a taxi. During low season, however, buses are less frequent.

The best places to go for a meal are Chora and Pera Gialos. There are also some restaurants in Livadia & Analipsi. Below you can find a list of some of the best restaurants in Astypalea. For more information and reviews of restaurants on the island, you can check TripAdvisor.

Best restaurants in Astypalea

• Barbarossa Restaurant: One of the best restaurants in Chora for traditional cuisine.
• Akti Restaurant: Great seafood restaurant in Pera Gialos with a stunning view
• Akrogiali Restaurant: Seafood restaurant by the beach of Pera Gialos with a great view of the Chora
• Gerani Restaurant: Good traditional cuisine in Livadi
• Astropelos Restaurant: Nice seafood restaurant by the beach of Livadi
• Astifagia: The best seafood restaurant in Analipsi (Maltezana) by the beach of Schinontas
• Archipelagos Cafe: Nice cafe with good desserts and great views of Chora
• Butterfly Cocktail Bar: Good for cocktails by the windmills overlooking Chora

You can check the location of these restaurants on this map.

Local Specialities

• Goat meat: Goat is used in various dishes. as it is the main animal breed on the island. You can see them roaming around on cliffs throughout the island.
• Chlori (soft cheese): Used in salad and in pastries or pies
• Thyme Honey: The honey from Astypalea is well known for its excellent quality. Beekeeping is quite popular in the island and you can see beehives in many places throughout the island.
• Saffron: Another famous product of Astypalea that is collected from the mountain every autumn and used in various dishes and sweets (like the yellow cookies)
• Seafood
• More information about the best greek dishes you can find here.

1. Have a stroll in picturesque Chora & Pera Gialos
2. Visit the castle of Astypalea
3. Windmills of Astypalea
4. Swim and relax on one of the best beaches on the island
5. Rent a car and explore the island
6. Take the route less travelled to Panormos
7. Admire the views from Palaio Mylos
8. Visit Vathi and its beautiful lagoon
9. Take a boat trip to the tiny islands of Koutsomiti, Kounoupa & Red Rock
10. Church of Panagia Portaitissa
11. The infant cemetery
12. Visit the Church of Panagia Poulariani
13. Monastery of St. John
14. Archaeological Museum of Astypalea
15. Dam of Livadi

1. Chora of Astypalea
2. Peras Gialos
3. Livadia (or Livadi)
4. Analipsi (or Maltezana)
5. Vathi

Astypalea might not have the best beaches of the Aegean compared with its neighbours; however, it still has some very nice beaches with crystal clear water. Most of them are with grey sand and small pebbles but there also are some with fine sand. The most popular beaches in Astypalea and most easily accessible are Livadi, Pera Gialos, Schinontas, Steno, Maltezana and Agios Konstantinos.

However, the best beaches on the island are Kaminakia and Vatses, a bit more difficult to get to, through a dirt road, but well worth the effort.

Also, the beaches of Koutsomytis and Kounoupes islands are definitely worth the trip by boat. There are daily excursions that will give you the opportunity to swim in their clear blue waters.

1. Kaminakia Beach
2. Vatses Beach
3. Steno Beach
4. Livadi Beach
5. Agios Konstantinos
6. Schinontas Beach
7. Tzanakia Beach
8. Maltezana Beach
9. Agios Ioannis Richtis
10. Pera Gialos
11. Blue Harbour
12. Marmari Beach
13. Panormos Beach
14. Chrysi Ammos
15. Plakes
16. Koutsomitis
17. Kounoupa

You can click on the map below for the location of the best attractions, restaurants & hotels, as well as the best villages and beaches to visit in Astypalea.

It is worth staying on the island for at least 4 days if you want to explore it at your own pace. The following itinerary includes things to do for 4 days on the island, but if you have less time to spend, e.g. a weekend, you can follow the itinerary for Days 1 & 2 only etc. I have taken Chora as an overnight stay for the duration of the holiday and it will work similarly if you stay in Livadi but slightly differently if you are based in Analipsi.

Day 1

• Walk around the main square in Chora for breakfast and enjoy the views of the harbour
• Tour the eastern part of the island by car.
• Swim at Steno Beach
• Quick photo stop at Blue Harbour
• Have a walk in tiny Maltezana harbour but swim in Schinontas at the eastern side of the village (better beach)
• Quick photo stop at the Memorial of the french admiral Hippolyte Bisson.
• Continue the scenic route towards Vathi
• Take a detour to the Church of Panagia Poulariani (only 4×4) to enjoy views of the whole island
• Drive to Exo Vathi for a quick drink at the harbour while enjoying this beautiful lagoon.
• Drive back to Chora for an evening meal at Barbarossa restaurant.
• Total drive time: 2h (50km)

Day 2

• Visit the Dam at Livadia for a quick walk
• Visit the beach of Agios Konstantinos
• Drive to Vatses or Kaminakia (or both) for another swim via a dirt road but with nice scenery
• Stop at Livadi beach for another swim or have a siesta
• Back out around 6pm for a coffee at Archipelagos cafe enjoying the views of Chora
• Visit Querini castle and the Church of Portaitissas
• Have a stroll at the narrow alleys of Chora
• Walk down to the port for a meal at Akrogiali Restaurant
• Total drive time: 2h (35km)

Day 3

• Take a boat cruise to Koutsomitis & Kounoupa islands

Day 4

• Take the dirt road to Panormos (1h)
• Swim at the beautiful and isolated bay of Panormos without anyone around
• Photo stop at Agios Ioannis Chrurch (St John Monastery)
• Photo stop at the Palaio Mylos to enjoy the views
• Take a drive to the new port of Agios Andreas to catch your ferry back or to watch the action.
• Total drive time: 2h (38km)

You can find the routes for the above itinerary on the following clickable map.

You can check the best photographs from the island of Astypalea here.

Here is a list of the best viewpoint locations and scenic routes on the island where you enjoy great views.

• Palaios Mylos near Chora
• Querini Castle in Chora
• Dirt Road to Church Lady Poulariani
• Viewpoints of Chora
• Viewpoints of Livadi
• Dirt Road to Panormos Beach
• Church of Agios Ioannis

You can check these viewpoints’ locations and the best photographs on the island on the following map.

Watersports

There are no watersport activities on the island except for kayaking. Sea Kayak Rental is located on the beach of Maltezana, Analipsi by the Maltezana Beach Hotel Restaurant & Pool Bar.

Hiking

There are various hiking trails around the island. There is a list of some of the trails on the official website of Astypalea, both in english and greek. It can be found here.

Boat trip to Koutsomiti, Kounoupa & Red Rock

This is a daily excursion to visit the beautiful beaches on the small islands of Koutsomitis and Kounoupes and also a visit to the Red Rock. The beaches are gorgeous with crystal clear turquoise waters.

There are usually 3 boats (Thalassopouli, Perla & Merilo) doing the same route departing from Pera Gialos (Astypalea port) in front of the Hotel Paradissos. The trip lasts about 7h (from 11am to 5.30-6pm) and costs 20 euros per person (2021 prices).

This is a very popular boat trip and it is recommended to be booked in advance in high season. You can see the boats advertising the tour at the harbour of Pera Gialos and you can also book it in one of the travel agencies in Chora.

There are also some other boat excursions to the more inaccessible beaches around the island. More information about excursions & tours in Astypalea can be found here.

Visit the neighbouring islands

You can take the ferry and visit one of the neighbouring islands. Difficult to be done as a day trip because of the ferry time schedules but it is ideal as a stopover for a few days before you go back to Athens. You can visit the beautiful island of Amorgos or one of the other islands on the route back to Piraeus (eg. Donousa, Paros or Naxos).

Check the following video slideshow to get further inspiration to visit Astypalea 🙂

Best destination for souvenir shopping is Chora with shops selling all the usual greek souvenirs.

A unique souvenir to buy is the famous Astypalean Honey. A nice shop in Chora to buy honey and other traditional products and pastries is Keranthos.

Check also my post on the best things to buy from Greece.

You can check the following posts:

• Astypalea Beaches
• Villages of Astypalea
• Best sights and things to do in Astypalea

Other useful websites for more information about Astypalea:

• VisitAstypalea: The official site for Astypalea (in greek but there is an english version also)
• Greeka.com: One of the best travel websites about Greece with lots of information and travel guides for all the greek islands, including Astypalea
• Mysterious Greece: Another good website with detailed information about Greece, including Astypalea

Some good travel guides to buy before your visit to Astypalea:

• Astypalaia Travel Guide: Small book on Kindle about Astypalea
• Lonely Planet Greek Islands (Travel Guide): This comprehensive guide also includes information about Astypalea. Only worth it if you are planning to visit other islands in Greece.

• Flights: I always use Skyscanner as my first choice as it’s so easy to use and you can search best deals by month. Momondo is another very good search engine as well as Google Flights.
• Accommodation: I always use Booking.com as my first choice, as it offers a great choice of accommodation at affordable prices and it’s so easy to use. TripAdvisor is one of the best search engines to check deals from different websites; however not as good for checking the actual properties & rooms. Airbnb is a great alternative to find out homes and apartments to rent by real homeowners.
• Ferries: Ferryhopper is one of the best websites to check ferry schedules and buy the cheapest ferry tickets while in Greece.
• Car Rental: I always check Skyscanner for the cheapest car rental options.
• Public Transport: There is no booking site to check bus timetables and book buses online in Astypalea.
• Day Trips & Tours: TripAdvisor provides the most comprehensive list of day trips and you can book directly with them.
• Travel Insurance: SafetyWing is a great choice for long-term travellers and digital nomads. Alternatively, you can use one of the price comparison websites for cheaper quotes.

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