FOLEGANDROS TRAVEL GUIDE

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Folegandros is one of the most beautiful small islands of the Cyclades and despite its popularity in recent years, it has remained unspoilt by mass tourism.

It is an ideal destination for a relaxed holiday in the sun and combines pretty beaches with crystal clear waters, a stunning Chora and beautiful views and coastline.

This travel guide will help you plan the perfect trip to Folegandros by showing you the best beaches, things to do and places to visit including a tourist map, photos and an itinerary with day trip suggestions.

Folegandros is one of the most photogenic islands of the Cyclades with a stunning Chora and beautiful coastal scenery.

The island’s area is 32 sq. km and there are 670 inhabitants.

There are three main settlements on the island: the small port of Karavostasi, the capital village of Chora, and Ano Meria, which is situated on the north side of the island.

The island has a cliffy coastline and an arid landscape with goats and donkeys still present. There are some beautiful beaches like Katergo and Agkali with clear blue waters.

It used to be one of the less visited islands of the Cyclades but lately, the number of tourists has increased dramatically, especially Greeks. It doesn’t have the infrastructure to cope in the peak summer months and therefore accommodation can be very expensive so it is advisable to book ahead.

The tourist season starts from May to September.

For a beach holiday, the best time to visit the island of Folegandros is between June and mid-September. It’s dry, sunny and hot. Also, most of the tourist amenities will only be open during these months.

If you want to avoid the crowds, I would avoid the summer months of July and August, as the island tends to get very busy with most Greeks taking their holidays then. Prices are also higher and most places tend to get fully booked. Weather can also get very hot, with temperatures over 30°C. However, the island is full of life during those months with everything open and in full swing.

For me, the best time to visit will be mid-June or early September with more acceptable temperatures, fewer crowds and lower prices but still possible to swim in the sea.

Off-season there are few ferries and most shops, hotels, and restaurants close in October and do not open until May.

Wind can be an issue in Folegandros as in most islands of the Aegean and particularly in the Cyclades. It can get very windy when the northern winds blow sometimes lasting for days.

Folegandros is a small island and you can probably explore the whole island in two days, but I would recommend staying on the island for at least 4 days if you would like to explore it at a more relaxed pace and visit the more isolated beaches and parts of the island.

The most popular places to stay in Folegandros are Chora and Karavostasi, but there are also a few apartments to rent in Agkali.

My recommendation is to stay in Chora as it’s the best base to explore the island with lots of options for accommodation, food and most of the tourist amenities. If you want a hotel close to the beach, the best place to stay is Karavostasis (the port of Folegandros).

Best hotels in Folegandros

• Anemi Hotel: The luxurious 5-star Anemi hotel in Karavostasi includes a pool, a bar/restaurant, a fitness centre and a tennis court. Great views towards the port.
• Aeri Hotel: A great little hotel with stunning views towards Chora, only 200m away.
• Vardia Bay Hotel: A good hotel in Karavostasi overlooking the small beach with great sea views from the verandas.
• Chora Resort and Spa: Nice resort hotel with a large pool and large rooms.
• Meltemi Hotel: A good and more affordable option in Chora
• Policandia Hotel: A beautiful hotel with a large swimming pool.

Click here to check and compare prices on accommodation for the whole island.

By Plane

There is no airport in Folegandros. The closest airport is Santorini or Milos. You can consider flying there and then taking the high-speed ferry to Folegandros.

By Ferry

There are ferries from the port of Piraeus in Athens, usually 4 times per week during the summer season. It’s a 4 to 8-hour long trip depending on the ferry. You have the option of the high-speed ferry that takes about 4h or the conventional but cheaper ferry that takes about 7 to 10h depending on the route. The conventional ferry can be very tiring, but it can be combined with visits to other islands of the Aegean, as it goes through other neighbouring islands (Serifos, Sifnos, Milos). The price is usually around €40 for a single ticket with a conventional ferry and about €80 with a fast ferry, a lot more expensive.

Generally, ferry companies do not release time schedules and tickets for the summer season until late in spring so it’s difficult to plan and book well in advance. However, prices tend to be the same regardless of how early you book and return tickets are usually the same price as two single tickets. During the peak summer season, especially at weekends and the month of August, it’s advisable to book in advance because some ferries tend to be fully booked.

Folegandros is also connected with Local ferries throughout the year to Santorini, Ios, Sikinos, and Paros.

You can check the MarineTraffic for real-time information on the position of the ferries around the island.

For the cheapest site to book your ferry ticket in Greece, check the link below.

By Car

You could hire a car if you would like to explore the island at your own pace, although options are limited, so it’s advisable to book in advance. The best place to rent is at the port, Karavostasi or Chora. Car rental for a day is usually 40 euros in high season.

Check the link below to book and compare car rental prices.

By Scooter/Motorbike/Quadbike

A cheaper alternative to the car is renting a scooter or motorbike if you are comfortable with it, but you need to be more cautious on the road.

Quadbikes can be limited and they are not much cheaper than renting a car, but they can be fun.

By Taxi

There is a limited taxi service and it can be arranged by phone. There are usually taxis waiting at the port with each ferry arrival and you can also arrange a taxi from Chora. It can be a bit expensive, but a more convenient mode of transport than the bus.

By Bus

There is a bus service between Chora, Karavostasi and Ano Meria, the 3 main settlements on the island, and also with Agkali beach. The service is more frequent during the summer months and it is a good and cheap option if you don’t hire a car.

You can find information about the bus schedule here. The schedule varies depending on the season.  The single one-way ticket price is €2 and you can get your ticket when entering the bus.

By Boat

There are water taxis that depart daily from the port of Karavostasis to reach various beaches on the island, e.g Katergo & Agkali

The best place to go for a meal is Chora with many good restaurants in picturesque squares. There are also some nice seafood tavernas in the port of Karavostasi.

Best restaurants in Folegandros

• Restaurant Melissa: A lovely restaurant situated on the old town square, with seating under the trees that offers lovely local dishes
• Piatsa Restaurant: Traditional local food in a nice atmosphere, located at Chora’s central square.
• Blue Cuisine: Chic outdoor restaurant with great dishes and service. More expensive than the normal tavernas.
• Dal Kapo del porto: One of the best fish tavernas in Karavostasi with fresh seafood dishes.
• Rakentia: An excellent cocktail bar in Chora to enjoy sunset views.

You can check the location of these restaurants on this map.

Local Cuisine

• Matsata: Tagliatelle with rooster
• Rakomelo: Raki with Honey
• Karpouzenia: a local sweet made of fried watermelon
• Wine
• More information about the best greek dishes you can find here.

1. Chora

Chora of Folegandros is one of the most photogenic towns of the Cyclades. It is built above a cliff and offers amazing views over the Aegean Sea. Wandering through the traffic-free streets of Chora, especially in the evening is one of the best things to do while in Folegandros.

Chora is full of traditional whitewashed houses, with blue doors, and colourful bougainvillaeas. There are three picturesque squares with traditional tavernas and coffee shops, with tables under the shade of trees to enjoy a meal or a drink.

You should also explore the narrow alleys of Kastro, the oldest quarter in Chora, with its old two-storey whitewashed houses, right on the edge of the cliff facing the sea.

2. Church of Panagia (Koimisi tis Theotokou)

The church of Panagia is located above Hora by the cliff edge and provides amazing views over the village and towards the whole island and the northern coastline.

It’s a 10min uphill walk from the village and a popular spot to watch the sunset. It is a magical experience and should be on everyone’s must-do list for the island.

The church was rebuilt in 1821 and the interior is also interesting with a marble iconostasis, archepiscopal throne and pulpit.

3. Katergo Beach

Katergo is the most beautiful beach on the island, with white pebbles and crystal-clear waters surrounded by high cliffs. Worth hiking there for the beautiful views from the top.

4. Agkali Beach

This is one of the island’s best and most popular sandy beaches with several tavernas and a few rooms to let.

5. Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki beaches

One of the best things to do while on the island is taking the boat from Agkali or hiking to these beautiful beaches on the west coast of Folegandros.

6. Port of Karavostasis

Karavostasi is the ferry port of the island on the southeast of Folegandros. It’s an attractive seaside village built around a pebble beach with few hotels and rooms to let and a few restaurants.

7. Rest of the sights

– Chrysospilia Cave

Chrysospiliá is a cave situated below the Church of Panagia with impressive stalactites and stalagmites, the cave is unique for the ancient male Greek names written on its walls and roof. You can visit on an organised boat tour. Safe access is possible only by boat when the weather is very good.

– Aspropounta Lighthouse

You can visit the lighthouse from Livadaki beach (15min walk) or via a footpath from Ano Meria (1h hike).

– Folklore Museum

The Folklore Museum is located in Ano Meria. It is housed in a traditional house with various traditional objects on display. It is a great way of understanding how the locals once lived. It is free to visit.

1. Chora

Chora is the island’s capital and largest village. It is situated in a stunning setting by the cliff edge and it is one of the most beautiful choras of the Cyclades.

The village centre is free from traffic and it’s a beautiful maze of narrow streets and attractive squares full of cafes and restaurants. It is full of whitewashed houses with picturesque small yards and numerous small churches

The Kastro neighbourhood is quite attractive with 2-storey residential houses.

Above the village is the Church of Panagia (monastery of Kimisis tis Theotokou) which provides great views, especially at sunset.

2. Karavostasi

Karavostasi is the ferry port of the island on the southeast of Folegandros. It’s an attractive seaside village built around a pebble beach with few hotels and rooms to let and a few restaurants. There is another scenic beach with a cliff to the west of the village.

3. Ano Meria

Ano Meria is the second biggest village of Folegandros, on the northwestern side of the island.

This is a cluster of tiny hamlets spread with no specific village centre. There is a nice church of Agios Georgios.

To learn more about the local life in Ano Meria you can visit the local Folklore Museum.

4. Agkali

Agkali is a small coastal village, built around Agkali Bay with the most popular sandy beach on the island.

Folegandros has some beautiful beaches, some sandy and some pebbly with crystal clear water. Some of them are not easily accessible, either you need to walk or take a boat to reach them.

The best beaches not to be missed are Katergo, Agkali, Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki beach.

If it is a windy day, avoid the beaches on the north coast and visit the ones in the south.

Below is a list of the 10 best beaches on the island.

1. Katergo Beach

Kátergo is the most beautiful beach on the island, with white pebbles and crystal-clear waters surrounded by high cliffs.

It’s accessible by a 25min hike from Livadi settlement or by a water taxi from Karavostasis (€12).

There are no tavernas or umbrellas so bringing your own water and food is advisable.

2. Agkali Beach

This is the most popular sandy beach on the island with several tavernas and a few rooms to let.

It is easily accessible by car or bus and it is ideal for families because of the shallow water and the few trees for shade.

On the right side of the bay, there is a tiny harbour, where you take the boat to the nearby beaches of Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki.

3. Agios Nikolaos Beach

One of the most scenic beaches on the island to the west of Agkali. You can reach it on a 20min hike from Agkali or by boat (5min). It is a mix of sand and pebbles with beautiful clear waters. There are also a few trees that offer shade. The only downside the seabed is a bit rocky at the beginning.

There is a small taverna at the beach that offers good food and a small chapel that provides nice views over the beach.

The beach has also become popular with nudists

4. Livadaki Beach

This is a beautiful beach with white pebbles and crystal clear waters.

It is accessible by boat from Agali (15min) or on foot from Ano Meria (45min hike). A return ticket from Agali costs 15 euros.

The beach doesn’t have any facilities or umbrellas.

5. Vardia Beach

A lovely beach on the east side of Karavostasis with a mix of sand and pebbles. It is surrounded by cliffs and accessible by steps from the port.

It can get quite windy when the north winds blow. Much quieter than Chochlidia beach.

6. Chochlidia Beach

Also known as Karavostasi beach as it is located by the port of Karavostasis. It is a lovely pebble beach with trees for shade. Quite shallow so ideal for families with kids.

There are cafes and restaurants nearby. The only downside is it’s very close to the boats of the harbour

7. Livadi Beach

Livadi beach is a relatively big beach with a mix of great sand and pebbles, close to Karavostasi, a 15min walk to the south.

It’s a good beach for families with trees for shade but there are no other facilities (tavernas or umbrellas).

It’s very close to Livadi camping.

8. Galyfos Beach

It is a small pebble beach with beautiful crystal turquoise waters. It is accessible through a footpath (10 minutes walk from Agali beach and 10 minutes before Agios Nikolaos beach).

9. Agios Georgios

Small pebble beach on the north coast of Folegandros surrounded by some old fishermen’s houses. It can be windy when the north wind blows.

Accessible by car via unpaved road from Ano Meria or via a footpath (1h hike).

10. Ambeli Beach

It is a small rocky beach with beautiful clear waters.

The beach is accessible through a steep dirt road (10 min drive from the main road) or a 30min walk from Ano Meria. It has a small footpath at the end of the road which leads to the beach.

11. Fira Beach

Fira is a tiny cove, 15 minutes via a footpath from Agkali and an ideal isolated spot to watch the sunset.

12. Ligaria Beach

A small secluded pebble beach next to Agios Georgios, ideal for isolation. Accessible by car via a dirt road from Ano Meria or via a footpath (1h hike).

14. Latinaki-Vitzenzou-Pountaki beaches

Small quiet sandy beaches, located next to each other and close to the port of Karavostasi (1000m).

You can click on the map below for the location of the best attractions, restaurants & hotels, as well as the best villages and beaches to visit in Folegandros. The map also includes practical information, the best viewpoints and photo spots on the island.

To save the map, make sure you are logged in to your Google account, then click on the star to the right of the title. To locate the map go to your Google Maps app (or Account), click on ‘Saved’ (or ‘Your Places’), and select ‘Maps’.

It is worth staying on the island for at least 2 days but I will recommend staying 3-4 days if you want to explore it. The following itinerary includes things to do for 4 days on the island. I have taken Chora as a base & overnight stay for the duration of the holiday. I would recommend renting a car for at least a day as it gives you the freedom to stop where you like and enjoy the views.

Day 1

• Arriving by ferry in Karavostasis.
• Wander around Chora’s narrow streets.
• Visit the Church of Panagia for sunset views.
• Finish with a meal in one of the picturesque village squares.

Day 2

• Hire a car and tour the island
• Visit Ano Meria and the north side of the island.
• Photo stop at Ligaria and Agios Georgios beaches
• Hike to Katergo beach.
• Return to Karavostasi by the coastal road
• Another optional swim at Livadi.
• Admire the views of Chora and Karavostasi from the top of the island.
• Back to Chora for a meal and drink.

Day 3

• Morning walk to the Church of Panagia to enjoy the morning views
• Visit Agkali Beach by bus or hired car
• Boat to Agios Nikolaos and Livadaki beach
• Visit Karavostasi for an evening walk and a meal

Day 4

• Morning swim at Vardia beach in Karavostasi
• Optional boat tour of the island including Chrisospillia Cave or diving
• Ferry back to Athens

You can check the best photographs and slideshows from the island of Folegandros here.

Here is a list of the best viewpoint locations on the island where you enjoy great views.

• Church of Panagia
• View of the north side of the island
• View of Katergo beach
• Agios Eleftherios Church
• View of the cliffs of Chora
• Agios Nikolaos Church
• View of Livadaki beach
• View of the Galyfos beach and coastline
• View of Karavostasis
• View of Agkali Bay
• View of Agkali Beach
• View of Ano Meria

You can check these viewpoints locations and the best photo spots on the island in the following map.

Hiking

The island of Folegandros is a great place for hiking, although during the summer months can be very hot under the boiling sun so it’s advisable in the morning or late evening.

• Agkali to Agios Nikolaos: That is an easy 20min hike to Agios Nikolaos beach from Agkali beach which provides nice views of the coastline.
• Livadi to Katergo: That’s a more difficult hike from the Livadi settlement to Katergo beach. The path is easier on the way to Katergo as it is downhill and more tiring on the way back because of the uphill climb from the beach. It takes about 25min but it is worth it as the views are stunning as you approach the beach from the top.
• Livadaki to Aspropounta Lighthouse: An easy 20min walk from Livadaki Beach to the Lighthouse that provides some nice views towards the beach.

More information regarding the various hiking trails on the island can be found here.

Diving

There is a dive centre on the island that offers diving and snorkelling trips. SEA-U is a certified diving centre that is situated in Chora

Folegandros Boat Tour

There are companies that organise boat tours around the island.

One good boat tour around the island organised by Diaplous Travel starts from the port of Karavostasis and lasts for about 6h with stops at various beaches and also a visit to Chrisospilia Cave. It is worth it for visiting the less accessible beaches of the island (e.g. Katergo, Livadaki or Ampeli). You can find more info here. Ticket: €50 per person.

You can also have a private tour instead tailored to your needs with them as well as with the following companies: Island Spirit & Sea-U.

Visit the neighbouring islands

You can take the ferry and visit one of the neighbouring islands. Difficult to do as a day trip because of the ferry time schedules but it is ideal as a stopover for a few days before you go back to Athens. You can visit the neighbouring island of Sikinos, Ios, Milos or one of the other islands on the route back to Piraeus (eg. Paros or Naxos).

Check the following video slideshow to get further inspiration to visit Folegandros 🙂

Other useful websites for more information about Folegandros:

• Folegandros.gr: The official website of Follegandros with a lot of information about the island.
• Mysterious Greece: A good website with detailed information about Greece, including Folegandros

Some good travel guides to buy before your visit to Folegandros:

• Lonely Planet Greek Islands (Travel Guide): This comprehensive guide also includes information about Folegandros. Only worth it if you are planning to visit other islands in Greece.

• Flights: I always use Skyscanner as my first choice as it’s so easy to use and you can search best deals by month. Google Flights. is another very good search engine.
• Accommodation: I always use Booking.com as my first choice, as it offers a great choice of accommodation at affordable prices and it’s so easy to use. Airbnb is a great alternative for homes and apartments to rent by real homeowners.
• Ferries: Ferryhopper is one of the best websites to check ferry schedules and buy the cheapest ferry tickets while in Greece.
• Car Rental: I always check Skyscanner for the cheapest car rental options.
• Public Transport: Check the Folegandrosbuses website for the latest timetables.
• Travel Insurance: SafetyWing is a great choice for long-term travellers and digital nomads. Alternatively, you can use one of the price comparison websites for cheaper quotes.

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